Horse Halter

A collar must fit properly to be comfortable and functional. It should be snug, but not tight or slip off. For that, you need the two-finger test. The accepted way to check a collar for fit, is to be able to place two fingers between your dog's neck and the inside of the collar.

An extremely vital factor to remember is to regularly check your dog's collar. This is especially critical when they are puppies, if they are left outside or should they gain weight. Within weeks, your puppy or dog could be in horrifying discomfort, because their collar is too tight!

The second most important thing to remember is to have some sort of identification on your dog's collar. Many a lost dog has ended up in a shelter, and euthanized only because they did not have any identification. It doesn't have to be anything elaborate. Something as simple as a plain tag, with their name and your phone number could be the difference between a happy reunion, and never seeing your pet again. If your dog has medical issues, it is a good idea to include that information on their tag.

Note that the higher a collar rides on the dog's neck, preferably right under their ears, the more effective and less dangerous it is.

Types of collars

The most common collars used by dog owners are, flat, rolled leather, choke, pinch/prong, force, slip, martingale (modified choke), harness and head.

Flat collars are great for when you are not training your dog, or if you have a well-behaved animal that does not pull when walked.

Rolled leather collars are better for long-haired dogs, as they do not flatten the hair around the neck.

For training purposes, the most commonly used collars are choke chains, slip collars and martingales, which are modified choke collars. Martingales are flat collars with about 3 inches of material or chain loop, to which the leash is attached. They tighten, then immediately release, when a correction is made. They are also practically impossible to slip out of when fitted correctly. It works on the same principle as a martingale for a horse. Unlike a choke chain, with a martingale there is no uncertainty whether it is on correctly. It allows control, without the choking associated with choke or slip collars.

If a choke chain is not on properly, it is not only ineffective; it is dangerous! Many inexperienced dog owners are unaware; there is a right and a wrong way to place a choke chain on their pet. To be effective, the chain must release immediately after a correction is made. The free end of a choke chain, that which is attached to the leash, must be OVER, your dog's head, not under their chin. If you do not do it correctly, you will continue to choke your dog, as the chain will "lock" into place.

The same rule is true for slip collars. Slip collars work like choke chains. They are frequently made of material such as nylon, cloth, leather or bungee cord material. Slip collars are a length of material, with rings at either end, so by slipping the material through a ring, it forms the loop, to be used as a collar.

Pinch/prong collars are a series of chain link with prongs turned toward the dog's neck. This collar theoretically mimics the actions of a correction made by a mother or alpha dog's teeth, against a dog's neck. Some advocates of pinch/prong collars blunt the force of the prong, by placing rubber tips on them. It is important to learn the proper way to use a pinch collar, for it to be successful.

In extreme cases, and usually for the training of sport and hunting dogs, owners have been known to utilize shock remote collars and force collars. The shock collar is usually used when training for recall. Force collars are flat leather collars, with small "spikes" or rivets on the inside of the collar. When the dog pulls or when the owner makes a correction, the collar cinches to reinforce the correction.

For dogs with certain medical issues, toy and some small breeds, it is recommended to use a harness, as too much pressure on the trachea may cause excessive choking or collapsed trachea.

Finally, the head collar. Basically it is a horse halter designed for dogs. A head collar fastens around the back of a dog's neck, just under their head. Underneath the attached piece that is slipped over the top and high on the dog's muzzle is a ring. That is where the leash is connected. This controls the direction and intensity of pulling. The more pressure the dog applies, the closer their head turns toward the owner. Head collars are highly effective, especially when children or elderly are walking the dog.

Bottom line: Most dog owners have more than one kind of collar for their pet. Use the exact collar for the intended purpose and make sure it fits properly. Sign up for an obedience class to learn how to use the various collars. Learn how to painlessly make your dog "heel." By doing that, you will find walking your dog will become a joy, and not a chore.

Karen A. Soukiasian, GOOD DOG! - DOG TRAINING and BED-n-BISCUITS dog boarding and training - Owner/Trainer, St. Augustine, Florida - AKC CANINE GOOD CITIZEN and S.T.A.R. PUPPY Evaluator
http://www.freewebs.com/gooddogsite
http://www.bednbiscuits.webs.com

Can I lunge my horse in my parelli halter/headcoller instead of his bridle or cavesson?

Want to lunge my horse tonight but am wondering if it is safe to luncge him in it. I do ride him in it but lunch requires control. Thanks

Halters are much easyer to lunge in than a bridle. YES its safe & it doesnt require more control. Just wear gloves ! One of my horses is veryyy spazz all the time & was fooling around one day & ripped every single bit of skin off of my hand. It hurt sooo bad. Since it sounds like you dont lunge all that much im going to tell you how to.
Get you horse straigh, pointing in the way you want him to go. Then never go at their face with the lunge rope/whip etc. Go towards their butt. So just tap his butt with the rope & he should start to go out. Have atleast ten feet slack & if he slows down throw the rope at his BACK end. GOOD LUCK

Horse Halter Demonstration

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Snaffle Bit

In this article you will learn the 2 basic tips on Horse Riding sitting position. It will help you the best sitting technique to avoid you from falling down or horse to keep bouncing.

For horse lovers proper care and training about horses is very important. They dedicate time and money for proper raising from feeding to health maintenance. Not just taking care all they want but riding it as well even not for racing and equestrian competition but for personal pleasure too. Horse riding and training have two categories.

1. Horse lovers that sit on the horse.

2. Horse lovers that rides the horse.

As years past, there are changes occur due to riders modification that tend to lost the correct way of sitting position. The changes are influenced by many shows, riders sitting nearly behind the saddle while legs are way out of front. There some riders are hollow back with butt sticking out. All are incorrect sitting position.

There are 2 tips in executing the correct sitting position, as proven the traditional way is always the best way. For beginners this is very helpful to practice the proper way such as:

1. The heels, hips and shoulder in line rule. If you look the rider side-ways you be able to draw a straight line from heels, to the hips and to the shoulder. This sitting position usually used for slow or walking speed horse riding. Always remember heels DOWN and heads UP and your eyes looking forward. To maintain the balance is very important not just play riding. Practicing the correct way will make your learning easier.

2. The balance or center riding. If you look the rider side-ways with these position it will look like "W" but make notice you still have a straight line from shoulder to your hips but now your toe to your knee. This position is use when you are learning to ride the horse fast, running and jumping. Make a noticed that in this position your toes are pointing put, look between the ears of the horse, raise your butt and maintain shoulder and hips in line and lean your body a little bit forward in order to stay with the horse movements.

With this 2 helpful tips you will surely find your training and learning experienced easier. Bare in mind that these tips will help to maintain your balance and will allow the horse to move freely according to what the horse used to.

For more information and better advice for Best Horse Training Information click on it and Charlie Hicks, a horse enthusiast will surely guide you for better understanding and training with horses.

Best tips and freebies are available and offered

What bit to use, snaffle or french link?

I currently use a thick steel egg-butt snaffle on my horse, however it's a little to small for her mouth so I need a new one. I've been thinking about getting a loose Ring Snaffle or possibly some sort of french linked bit. My horse has a soft mouth so I want to stick to very mild snaffles but I'm not really sure which kind would be best. What bits do you recommend and why?

Loose rings are okay, but if you don't have bit guards on then they can pinch the corners of the horse's mouth since when the ring rotates around the snaffle there is a little space that can catch on the horse's lip.

I like eggbutts. Try and get an oval link. These have the same effect as a french link except they are bigger and softer on the horse's mouth than a french link. You can tell the difference because french links have a vertical link and oval links have a horizontal link (although some have vertical links - it just depends). They both decrease the nutcracker action that you get with a single jointed snaffle and they prevent the bit from hitting the roof of a horse's mouth.

If your horse is really sensitive to the nutcracker action then I also like waterford bits. They are made up of three links (I believe) and the whole mouth piece is just a bunch of links which eliminates the nutcracker action the only bad thing is that each link creates a tiny pressure point in the horse's mouth. But it's nothing severe. They aren't the best for putting a horse on the bit but will work if your skilled enough.

I'll post links to both.

Waterford eggbutt:

http://www.equishopper.com/p-5403-korsteel-waterford-eggbutt-snaffle.aspx

Eggbutt oval link:

http://www.equishopper.com/p-4124-jp-bits-by-korsteel-oval-mouth-eggbutt-bit.aspx

I just wanted to note:
Dover Saddlery has some good tack but if you ever can't find something at Dover go to EquiShopper. They have everything I swear!

2008 Idaho Reined Cow Horse Snaffle Bit Futurity Highlights

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Horse Riding

Used to make sure the saddle is correctly attached to the horses back, the girth sits around 10 cm behind the horses' front legs. There are a number of types of girth and styles online in the Anything Equine store. They are used for many different disciplines, as described below.

Balding Girths

Made from leather and cut into 3 strips.

Atherstone Girths

Shaped leather with a stronger strip of leather along the centre.

Dressage Girths

Also called a 'Lonsdale' girth. Not as long as other girths and used primarily with dressage saddles. The long billets on dressage saddles allow this girth to be fitted without the buckles interfering with the rider's leg aids. They can be made from leather, strong cotton or padded cotton and in Balding or Atherstone styles.

Unshaped Girths

Can be made from padded cotton or flat heavy cotton, both with webbing reinforcements, or they can also be made from leather.

Over girths

Mostly used when racing. Overgirths are used in addition to a regular girth to provide additional saddle security and are worn around the belly of the horse and across the seat of the saddle.

Stud Guards / Jumping Girths

These are commonly used when show jumping or eventing, they have a large protective pad that sits under the horse's belly, preventing studs or horse shoes from striking the horse's underside as they tuck their front legs up and under when jumping.

Tips

When choosing a girth it is essential that the correct size is chosen, for the horses comfort and for the rider's safety. The girth should spread even pressure across the belly of the horse. The measurement should be taken using a flexible measuring tape from the middle hole of one of the billets on your saddle, under the horse's belly in the position where the girth will sit, then to the middle hole of a billet on the opposite side.

Felicity is a intermittent scribe, writing infrequent pieces in the UK for anythingequine.co.uk who sell equestrian girths and saddlery products. Anything Equine specialise in horse rugs & Riding Boots in the UK.

Do you have to start horse riding when you are young to be good?

I started horse riding at when I was 18 and have been doing it for about a year now.I really wish I had started when I was younger.Does starting later disadvantage you in anyway?

No it doesn't. I coach people of all ages ( from 6 - 60) and can say that it makes a difference. I have had both younger and older riders that show a lot of talent and some of them are even competing in showjumping and dressage. All you need is hard work, a good coach, a good horse of course and a goal to strive to. My freind started riding when he was 30 and today he rides for his country competing on an international level in showjumping. My advice is to read up on horses as much as possible, attend any seminars that you can. A lot can be learned by observing so watch when somebody is training so try to pull out as much useful info as you can. Do not think that starting at an early age is such an advantage, a child doesn't absorb so much technical knowledge as an older rider, you can already understand the importance of a lot of terms used by your coach, while a child still has to learn those things. So there you go, aim high and good luck!

P.S. Try to organise a small group of people with the same level of riding and get in contact with your national equestrian federation to see if there are possibilities to have a pro coach hold a 3-4 day coaching session, with classroom lessons and riding lessons. We do it very often, we all split the costs of organizing such a thing and our federation is happy to help. This is a very good way to improve your riding and you will see different mehods of training. Who knows? Maybe they chose you to help them on further courses.

what is horseback riding really like??? (MUST WATCH)

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Western Pleasure

It is hard to know where to begin when it comes to specific suggestions for eating at restaurants in Bali, Indonesia. As wonderful as the Indonesian food is, you'll also enjoy finding an amazingly wide selection of cuisines from all over the world.

The reason for this is simple: so many people with connections to the restaurant business in their home country come to Bali and like it so much that they wonder about transplanting themselves and their culinary skills to paradise here. This is not to say that starting a restaurant in Bali would be an easy task. On the contrary, competition is so fierce among restauranteur ex-pats that I've always believed one is much better off being a customer in Bali rather than a restaurant owner!

Bali offers first-class Western eating. The prices and the variety here is stunning. You will find Italian food, French cuisine, Greek food, Moroccan food, Spanish tapas, very good Japanese, Mexican food and Middle Eastern food, Chinese, etc., etc. If you'd just like a steak, no problem! There is sublime vegetarian food in Bali, both in the Seminyak area and also in Ubud. Whatever your preference, it's here.

An interesting thing that did not occur to me until I had lived in Bali for a little while is that this same phenomenon of outsiders coming to Bali to create restaurants also happens with Indonesians coming from other islands and bringing their cuisines to share. There is wonderful Indonesian food in Bali from all over the Indonesian archipelago. You might be surprised at how varied Indonesian cuisine is, and you can make use of your Bali holiday to enjoy a breathtaking array of regional fare. From extremely spicy to very, very mild, Indonesian cuisine benefits from the country's location straddling the equator. You find amazing fruits and vegetables, many of which might be unfamiliar to you, but all of which are worth a try! Certainly the seafood is a high point as well.

By the way, all this is not to say that Balinese food isn't wonderful. Especially noteworthy is the 'Babi Guling', if you are a pork lover. It is a slow-cooked suckling pig dish that traveling chef Anthony Bordain claimed was the very best pork he'd ever had in his life!

I will offer a final tip on eating in Bali: don't be afraid to get a little bit adventurous when it comes to eating here. While you will find the familiar fast food franchises that you know from back home, I always think it is a shame when I see hordes of people in front of McSuperBurger or everyone's KidsFavoriteFriedChicken franchise (yes they are in Bali). Unlike some parts of Asia, the hygiene generally very good in Bali restaurants, especially in the tourist areas.

Compared to Western fast food joints, you can actually find cheaper meals at good Bali restaurants that offer a dining experience as pleasurable as some of your favorite restaurants back home, for a small fraction of the price. It is hard to believe sometimes how good value for money is when it comes to eating in Bali, and whatever you're hungry for you'll find it here at an amazing price.

Look forward to your meals in Bali, because eating here will really be a high point of your holiday. Don't miss some of the excellent Seminyak restaurants on Jalan Oberoi and Jalan Nakula; and if you're looking for vegan or vegetarian food Bali has plenty of choices for you.

What are your thoughts on Western Pleasure?

So, I've been doing H/J's my whole life, Or since I was about 8. (13 now.) And I haven't really seen a change in my training level, I knowI could easily jump about 3ft, that's what one the trainers at the barn says. But I'm still only jumping 2ft. So, I've decided to change hats nad move into Western. Now,Western pleasure has always caught my interest, what are your thoughts and opnions on it? Thanks for the help.

I think it is a better way of communicating. Dressage, cruel. Jumping, depends. No offense, but English saddles are just plain uncomfortable, and you have to maintain contact with their mouths. Take this from someone who's ridden both ways, a horse will appreciate you depending on 1. your bond and 2. which bit you use.

APHA Senior Western Pleasure-NWSS-Left

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Rope Halter

How does an Argentine Rope Halter work? (Horsey question)?

Hi all, I was recently given a couple of rope halters which I have just discovered are "Argentine Rope Polo Halters" or something similar. Here's a few pics I have found. Does anyone know how they are supposed to function properly? I don't know how they don't just slip off!

I bought one of those in a box of "stuff" at an auction. The only thing that seemed adjustable on it was the part around the throat. Maybe my horse's nose was to narrow for the design because when I turned him, the piece around his nose just spun and like you said, and just about slipped off. I think I still have it in one of my spare parts boxes.
I wish someone else with more info would answer your question, I would like to know too!

Tying a Cowboy Rope Halter

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Western Horse

Sometimes, the regular old boots aren't enough to protect your feet from what you're about to put them through. That's when you need western steel toe boots. Steel toes are an excellent way to make your boots incredibly durable without detracting one bit from performance or feel. Now just remember, a steel toe does not mean invincibility, so always keep an eye out for any hazards to your feet, just as you usually do. There are always those situations that no boot can protect you from, should you happen to wander into them.

There are more than a few women who find they just can't get along without their steel western boots. Horse trainers, for instance, find it them invaluable when working with a new colt or an unbroken horse, just in case one of those hooves happens to find one of their toes. Women who work around construction sites also find steel toes as handy as a hard hat. Just because you have to wear steel toe boots to keep your feet safe, it doesn't mean you have to have clunky, ugly boots. That's what these western boots are for.

The steel does add some extra weight. It's not really noticeable at first, but after a prolonged period of time, you may notice your feet starting to feel heavy. This is why it's so important to get a pair of western boots that fit you perfectly. The wrong fit can actually hurt after a while, which would make the whole point of wearing them moot. If your feet are protected from external harm while your toes are being pinched out of shape, you're only trading one problem for another.

Boot sizes are not necessarily the same as sizing in sneakers or other shoes. A different kind of footwear means a different range of sizes and what works for you with one kind of boot or shoe will not necessarily work with another. This is why it is necessary to find a local store to try on boots for yourself before buying a pair. Find the exact size that fits right and feels good and use it as a guide in your future boot shopping. During this trip, it's also important to wear whatever kind of sock you intend to wear with these boots, to be absolutely sure of the right fit.

As mentioned before, one size does not necessarily fit all, when it comes to different kinds of shoes. It is very likely that your boot size is a little different than the size of your other shoes. You'll need some real experience in fitting before trying to buy shoes online. Every woman has a unique foot, so you'll need a unique fit. Once you've found a style, name, brand and size of western steel toe that works for you, then feel free to buy them online. Read the descriptions carefully when web shopping because you can't make any visual or tactile comparisons. Some have only a cap on the end, instead of sheathing the entire toe box. When you want a steel toe boot with maximum protection, you need to get something that offers full coverage.

If you would like to view our wide range of Women's Western Boots, please visit our website Women's Western Boots

How to teach my horse Western?

I'd love to train my horse to be ridden Western, so how do I go about this?

I always think people do not try enough with their horses. I mean, you buy a quarter horse.. so they gotta be a cow horse; or a thoroughbred can only run etc. I have always thought you need to experiment with you re horse, do everything you can think of.. you will find he will do much better at some things than others, so that is what you should concentrate on. I bet your little horse could team pen, run barrels, break away roping, many many other things. All you gotta do to go western, is do western classes and use western tack. I would get on the net and do a search for western style classes and see how each is done. There will be slight changes in the paces and how fast or slow, and how you set, but that is all doable. Go have fun, try different things.

How to Saddle a Horse Western Style

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Pleasure Trail

When saddles are taken care of properly, they can last for generations. This can be significant to people whose family heritage is closely associated with horses in some manner. If you use your saddle regularly you may need to clean off the trail dust, dirt and sweat with each use. For occasional riders, toweling off the saddle will be enough and then do a complete cleaning every few weeks. Here are some tips to help with the process of cleaning and protecting your Leather Saddle.

Unfortunately, too many people are under the impression that any old cleaning agent will do for the saddle. This is definitely not the case. Many cleaners can dry out the leather, which will weaken the structure as well as ruin the look of the saddle. At the very least, make sure that any cleaning agents you employ are specially formulated for use with leather. Mild glycerin soap will remove grime and even mold if the saddle has been stored. If you use commercial leather cleaner make sure it is intended for saddles and is not a general use leather cleaning compound.

Along with choosing the right cleaning products to use is the task of making sure you know how to utilize the cleaners properly. Read the instructions that come with the cleaner and follow them to the letter. Use the right type of cloth or sponge to apply the cleaner and do not allow it to remain on the surface of the leather any longer than recommended. Following directions and using a little 'elbow grease' will go a long way toward giving your saddle leather a healthy glow.

Finish up with a non detergent leather conditioner. Many cleaning compounds also recommend applying their protecting agent to the saddle after cleaning the leather. Make sure to use this liquid or cream as well as the cleaner. Once the cleaning is done, move on to using proper storage. This will involve storing the saddle in the right environment, protecting it from humidity and extreme weather conditions. By doing so, you will get more from cleaning and protecting your leather saddle, and help the saddle remain in wonderful condition for many years to come.

Edie has many interests and her curiosity leads her to researching them resulting in free lance articles which help others meet their online goals. For your pleasure after a ride, have some green tea and learn to build a website about your favorite activity.

I'm interested in buying my first horse, what should I expect?

I am looking into possibly a TB or QH between the ages of 6 and 18, English Pleasure/Trail trained. I have boarding all squared away, but I am wondering what I can expect in vet costs, food, and other necessities? Also, how do I know a good horse when I see one? I want a well temperamented horse, around a 5-7 on the 1-10 scale. Thanks!!

A large hay bill and lot's o shoveling!

Takeme To The Moon - Pleasure/Trail Horse for Sale

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Pleasure Horse

Is it unatural for a horse to work/show @ the Western Pleasure gaits?

I have been riding 5 years western pleasure. My friend says it is unatural for a horse to move at the western jog, walk, and lope? My friend rides dressage and owns a horse also but she thinks it is unatural for a horse to move slow like that. Thanks for the answers.
=Tay=

Unfortunately, sometimes people that own and show one breed are kind of biased towards other breeds. I show Western Pleasure in AQHA, and can say that for some horses, it does look unnatural, but not for all of them. For example, with the breeding industry the way it is not, you can select a slow legged mare, and breed it to a slow legged stud, and get slow legged offspring (sometimes). You can get offspring that are naturally slow, and carry their heads lower naturally. Then, its just about collecting them, and getting them into a frame, and their movement is still natural.

It would be unnatural to take a Saddlebred, and make it move in a western pleasure gait, but the horses that are bred for it do it because its what they are bred for!

Her dressage horses "naturally" do pirouettes and the extended trots, and the piaffes and stuff in the pasture? I don't think so! My western pleasure horse "jogs" and "lopes" even when he's playing.

Bridleless Western Pleasure horse

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English Saddle

Buying the wrong western saddle is a very common occurrence in the western riding world. It's also a very expensive learning experience. You can skip this painful lesson by avoiding the top seven western saddle buying mistakes.

1. Buying Pretty. While we'd all like a nice looking saddle, letting looks drive your buying decision is asking for trouble. The quality of the saddle materials and the construction are far more important than the look of a saddle. A poorly made saddle can look awfully pretty, especially to the uninitiated. Don't fall for this one.

2. Buying Image. Have dreams of riding the range and working a cattle drive? Or maybe riding to an NFR championship buckle in barrel racing? While the cowboy and cowgirl dreams and imagery can be strong and enticing, don't let those images determine your saddle choice. Choose a saddle type that fits the actual type of riding that you'll be doing.

3. Buying Cheap. Cheap saddles are not a bargain. Poor quality materials and construction will shorten saddle life, and, more importantly, will cause discomfort and impair movement in your horse. If you can't afford at least a middle-of-the-road new saddle ($500 and up), then buying used is a great solution. Quality saddles last a long time, making buying a "pre-owned" saddle a smart buy.

4. Buying Dumb. You need to educate yourself on some saddle basics before buying. Ride in as many different saddles as you can. Talk to all the horse people you know about their saddles. Pick the brain of knowledgeable saddle folks. And, always, before purchasing a saddle, know the seller's tryout and return policies.

5. Buying Selfish. You found a saddle that's high quality, pretty, and fits you well. You're all set right? Wrong. You're forgetting one very important partner in this deal - your horse. If the saddle doesn't fit your horse well, than the rest doesn't matter. Make sure you understand the basics of horse fit and determine beforehand whether the saddle will be a good fit for your horse.

6. Buying One-Size-Fits-All. While you shouldn't need a different saddle for every horse you ride, one saddle will not fit every horse you run across. The best approach is to choose a saddle that will fit the basic physical type of horse that you'll ride. For instance, I ride Quarter Horses that are on the smaller size. I have a saddle that will fit most horses of this type. If you ride more than one type of horse, you'll need multiple saddles.

7. Buying Brand (or Endorsement). This one is a little trickier. Buying a well-established brand is not a bad idea. You just need to be aware that a number of saddle brands have been around a long time and the quality of their saddles have varied significantly over time. The quality can also vary within a brand's current product lines. They might have great roping saddles but just average barrel saddles. Never just blindly buy by brand without thoroughly inspecting the quality of the saddle in consideration. Additionally, celebrity endorsement can seem like a stamp of approval, but it really doesn't mean more than that the celebrity is receiving payment for use of his or her name. Very few celebrities have any input into the design and construction of the saddles bearing their name.

Many riders have a tack room full of saddles that didn't work out. Others are constantly buying and selling saddles in search of just the right one. It doesn't have to be this way. If you do your homework beforehand to truly understand your horse's and your own needs, you can purchase the one saddle that will be a match for you, your horse, and your riding activities.

Beth Stefani is the publisher of www.western-saddle-guide.com, a comprehensive online resource for understanding, choosing, and caring for the western saddle and accessories that are right for you.

How much would a good all around english saddle cost?

i lease a 12 year old gelding who was a previous barrel racer... but i recently decided to jump him and he is doing amazing.
i wanted to know how much an average all around english saddle would cost... one that i could do flat work in and jump in with no problem but it must be comfortable!. i also wanted to know how much chaps usually cost.
if you could give me the saddle brand that you prefer and how much the brand usually costs i would be very greatfull
thanks =]

Wintec is the best synthetic. If your looking for leather. Collegiate are really soft and have a broken in feel too them. The leather from them is somewhat cheaper, because Miller makes them. But if you take proper care of it, it can last 15-20 years. Basically and saddle put together in England/uk, are usually better quality. Argentine leather is BAD. HDR is another good brand that is english leather put together in Argentine so its a bit cheaper but still nice, with really soft leather.

How to Fit Horses with English Saddles : How to Hook the Girth of an English Saddle: Part 2

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Saddle Pad

Saddle fit - which is most important, the horse or rider? I am always surprised at people when they purchase a saddle it seems like their biggest concern is if the saddle will fit them. I see all these used saddles for sale on line in the descriptions they say 16" seat and go on to describe the saddle color, tooling, maker, and more. What they seem to fail to mention is what are the measurements to the parts that meet the horse? The size gullet, the spread of the bars, the skirt length. These are very important factors as to if the saddle is going to work for you and your horse.

Is Your Horse Cranky or Suffering in Silence? If your horse is uncomfortable he won't be enjoying the ride like you. And our fit can usually be adjusted, stirrup length and even seat size can be made smaller with a tush cushion. I agree seat size is very important and proper stirrup length is very important. If you don't have these thing right it is difficult to stay balanced but most of all it becomes uncomfortable. Other than that, your saddle has to fit the horse.

More to Saddle - Fitting Your Horse Correctly Than You There is much more to saddle fitting your horse correctly. You have to make sure it is high in the gullet and does not press on the withers, which are extremely sensitive. The bars of the tree are designed to lie flat on the back to distribute the riders weight evenly. If they are too small they will pinch the back at the bottom of the saddle tree bars. If they are too large of a spread they will dig into your horses back at the top of the bars. This variable in sizes is only a half of an inch with each different saddle tree size. With such a small measurement making such a difference you can see how easily you can get this wrong.

Consider More Than the Bottom When Saddle Fitting If you have a horse with a short back your saddle skirt could be too long and rub on the horses hip bones. If he has small withers and you do a lot of trail riding you might need a crupper or britchen to prevent your saddle from sliding up on your horse's neck. A breast collar will prevent the saddle from sliding back but it needs to be adjusted correctly so it does not restrict the shoulders. Not just the saddle but the cinch can gaul your horses sides into large open sores that will prevent you from riding.

White Hairs Are the Last Sign So many horses are suffering in quiet pain, some are acting out and misunderstood, some are just nervous, sweating profusely and chomping at the bit. Then I hear, "I don't have white spots so my saddle must fit". I want to tell you a personal story about white hairs. When my saddle fit was bad and what it took for the white hairs to show. The white hairs are the last to show you signs of a poor saddle fit. The white hairs are where the hairs have been damaged or died. If you ride a long time with a poor fitting saddle the hairs will always remain white. The hairs are dead and will never return with color.

Bare Tree Saddle Fitting Once the saddle fits you need to saddle your horse correctly. I rode for many years and did not know some things about correct saddling. No amount of saddle pad can correct a poor fitting saddle and in some cases can make the fit worse. Consider when you purchase your next saddle you try a bare tree saddle fit, with this you can see for yourself how the saddle bars lay on your horses back. If you want to know more about saddle fitting and the bare tree saddle fitting process visit my web site for further information and complete instructions on proper saddling. Make your next saddle specialized for your horse for a much better ride for both of you.

Sugar River Western Saddles and Horse Tack - Made to order western saddles and horse tack. All made in USA. Tack shop with custom saddle makers having 36 years experience. Specialized western saddles with bare tree saddle fitting process. Saddle fitting all horses for all types of western saddles. http://www.horsetack-supplies.com.

Saddle Pad?

Can you ride without a saddle pad, why or why not {english}
Not that I want to, just some controversy on this horse forum that I want to square away

Traditionally, (and I mean way back when most travel was done horseback) horses were ridden with out saddle pads.

Look at old European sporting art, fox/stag hunting art etc. You will notice that those horses did not go out with pads and now I will tell you why.

At that time, saddle makers were as common in every village as bakers, butchers etc. The household that had fine horses had saddles made for each one and flocked to fit each horse. Flocking or stuffing, if you will, was a natural, breathable material such as wool or doe hair. (flocking is the traditional term for stuffed panels). As each horse changed due to difference in weight, age or condition, the saddler would adjust the flocking to compensate for the changes in each horses back.

So long story short, a pad was not a popular addition to the well turned out horseman. Only later did they gain popularity for the simple reason that they aided in keeping the saddle CLEAN. Not as a band aid for the majority or poorly fitting, mass produced saddles we have today.

So to answer your question, yes you can ride a well fitting saddle without a pad.

Now here is an exercise for you to try:
Take corn starch or baby powder to your horses back and dust generously . Tack up your horse with your English Saddle and no pad. Take a spin around the riding ring. Unsaddle your horse. and look at the horses back. You will be able to clearly see where the saddle makes contact and where it doesn't. The areas where the power remain are areas of no contact or bridging. Your saddle fit goal is to have your saddle be in direct contact with your horses back in as many square inches as possible to avoid pressure points, but with enough space in the shoulder area so that the horses scapula ( shoulder blades ) can rotate back without interference or pinching in the gullet area.
This concludes saddle fitting 101. Hope that helps answer your question.

Cavallo Total Comfort System Horse Saddle Pads

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BLACK TACTICAL CROSS DRAW VEST FOR AIRSOFT OR PAINTBALL    US $29.99

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USMC SWAT Tactical FLIGHT Full Finger Airsoft Gloves L    US $6.99

Monogram 1 48 scale Gumman F4F Wildcat US Fighter    US $12.13

GI Type Knife Sharpening Stone N R FREE SHIP    US $3.82

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BNIB Bolle Tactical Goggles Eye protection Skiing para    US $1.53

Tactical CQB Gloves Neoprene Carbon Knuckle Protect L    US $30.00

31 42 24 Hunting Dual Rifle Carrying Case Gun Bag BK    US $18.90

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BLACKHAWK 100oz CAMO WATER BLADDER COVER UTILITY POUCH    US $2.95

1
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